Part futurist vision, part dashing exercise in tailoring, this was as original a collection as you are likely to see, based on a wonderful new, broad shouldered, loose cut jacket, curvy, jodhpur like pants, worn over night club warrior patent leather boots. One typically spectacular look wafted down the runway of the Grand Palais on model Olga Scherer, an asymmetrically cut biker jacket in a tough industrial leather with a chain mail choker and mega high brown velvet pants - a great head turning moment yet a completely credible fashion statement.
Pilati's sense of how to use volume as a flattering design element rather than a designer's ego statement was also admirable - with mannish Jesuit sleeved white shirts, peplum flounced tunics or fiendishly well-cut wrap skirts.
This show should also bury a frequent criticism of Pilati, that is clothes age women a little; for his twirling cuts, tough chic finish and sense of gal in control proportions kept the mood very youthful. Take the cocktail worn by Lily Donaldson, a mauve silk look with tight torso, bubble skirt and humungous black belt that would work on a granny or a teenage gal. Made in blacks and grays, with hints of turquoise, electric blue and the designer's fetish pale yellow, the palette was as coherent as the collection.
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